Ceiling Moulding

Begin an installation by determining the depth (down the wall) and the projection (on the ceiling) of the ceiling mouldings you are installing by holding a section in place and marking the depth and projection with a pencil. Snap chalklines for both dimensions around each wall of the room.

We recommend the use of Balmer Designer Miter Blocks for all ceiling moulding installations. Using the blocks eliminates the need to cut miters, match patterns, and to correct ceiling moulding alignment at each joint. The External miter block can be used to create an elegant self return wherever it is necessary to end a run of ceiling moulding such as when windows or doors extend to ceiling height.

Before applying adhesive to the pieces, we recommend that you cut and fit the entire room. Start by deciding where to place the designer miter blocks. Ideally, position divider blocks so that the distance between any two designer miter blocks is less than a full length of ceiling moulding.

Once the entire room is fitted, you are ready to complete the installation by fastening each miter block and then each piece of ceiling moulding pin place.

Wood ceiling moulding is usually nailed into place using finishing nails which are then countersunk. The holes and joints are then filled with a wood filler. The same approach may be followed for polyurethane ceiling moulding using a sandable, paintable, non-shrinking filler to fill the nail holes and joints.

Alternatively, the ceiling moulding may be attached to the walls and ceilings using a premium paintable, siliconized latex adhesive. This results in a more professional appearance but requires more care.

If you are using Designer Miter Blocks, install all the blocks first. This will allow you to later spring each length of moulding into place snugly against the blocks. Adhesive should be applied in a continuous 1/4" (6 mm) bead around the edges on the top and back surfaces of the block. Fasten it in place with two trim head drywall screws.

With ceiling moulding pieces, apply adhesive, again in a continuos 1/4" (6 mm) bad, along both the wall and ceiling  bedding surfaces of the ceiling moulding. If the piece abuts miter blocks of other lengths of ceiling moulding that are already fixed in place, also apply adhesive sparingly to those ends and spring the ceiling moulding into place. Use trim head drywall screws to fasten the moulding in place. Any remaining voids can be caulked with adhesive. Excess adhesive can be removed using a damp cloth.

Fill the screw or nail holes using a putty knife and sandable non-shrinking latex filler. Filled holes should be primed before painting for the best results.