Step 1 Pre-sanded door skin is re-sanded with two 180 grit brushes.

Step 2 Skin passes through a double-panel cleaner, which removes all dust from both sides of door skin.

Step 3 Ti-coat is applied by a single roller coater. This is a wash coat application that raises the grain, preparing the surface to receive uniform stain coats. Door skin passes through 60-foot automatic heat-controlled drying ovens, consisting of hot air and ultraviolet heat lamp.

Step 4 Door skin receives two coats of stain, one direct roller coater and one reverse roller coater. Stains are combination of dye and pigmented. Door skin passes through 60-foot automatic heat-controlled drying ovens, consisting of hot air and ultraviolet heat lamps.

Step 5 Door skin passes through two sanding heads, first pass, 180 grit, second pass, 120 grit. This is a de-nibbing process to sand raised grain from sealer and stain. Door skin passes through 100-foot automatic heat-controlled drying ovens, consisting of hot air and ultraviolet heat lamps.

Step 6 Door skin passes through two direct roller coaters and one reverse roller coater, applying three coats of a clear acrylic sealer to lock in the stain color. Door skin passes through 100-foot automatic heat-controlled drying ovens, consisting of hot air and ultraviolet heat lamps.

Step 7 Door skin passes through three sanding heads-180 grit, 180 grit and 220 grit – and a fourth head, which is panel cleaner. Door skin passes through 100-foot automatic heat-controlled drying ovens, consisting of hot air and ultraviolet heat lamps.

Step 8 Door skin passes through two direct roller coaters, which applies two coats of polyurethane ultraviolet top coat, which is cross linked chemically to provide an extremely hard finish.

Step 9 Door skin passes through four curing units with eight ultraviolet curing lamps.

Key: 1 = excellent 2 = very good 3 = good 4 = fair 5 = poor